Surfing is not so easy as grabbing a surfboard and catching a wave, it is an art which can only be expressed, never perfected.For a surfer to ply his art, many elements must come together in harmony.
Firstly the surfer, he must be fit and skilled, but more than that. He must be aware of and in tune with his connection to the ocean. He must feel the waves pulse, as they build near and approach. He must feel them as if he is a part of their inexorable approach, as if the ocean is a living organism which he is part of.
The ocean too must play its part. It must send through consistent swell lines, swells which wrap around the earth, peaking and pitching, offering the surfer steep wave faces and caverous barrels, gifting them to him as if he were a loved child, it was Christmas morning and these presents in their terrifying perfection, were exactly what he asked for, wanted and needed.
And finally there is the surfboard, the medium with which the artist expresses his creativity. It too must be perfect for the day, perfectly crafted to complement both the surfer and the waves offered by the ocean. Out of sync with either, danger and disaster looms. Perfect though, and a masterpiece is created.
Surfboard shapers are the mortar that hold it all together. In crafting custom designed surfboards, a master shaper offers the surfer the perfect medium in which to ply his art.
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